Exploring Antarctica The Norwegian Way

If you don’t like the weather in Antarctica, just wait a while and, in about five minutes, it will change. Even in summer, we woke to find snow had fallen on the ship swiftly followed by blue sky and bright sunlight that lit up the snow-covered mountains in all their magnificence. 

Penguins frolicked in and out of the calm sea as if impersonating dolphins while seals stretched out lazily on ice floes soaking up the warm rays of the January sun. Even humpback whales snoozed on the water as we sailed by. Above all, I can now place myself among that elite group who have walked upon the White Continent and watched in awe as an albatross wafted serenely above the stern of our ship in the Southern Ocean.

I had travelled here with Hurtigruten, the polar specialists, to join their specifically adapted vessel the Fram, named after Amundsen’s vessel that took him to these waters and enabled him to beat Scott to the pole 100 years ago this December.  

The decor includes original artwork and superbly appointed interiors that have been inspired by the Arctic and Greenland regions, with a main reception area, glass-enclosed observation salon and excellent leisure facilities, including gym, sauna and heated Jacuzzis. Items of the original Fram are also displayed throughout the vessel, linking the present vessel with the rich history of its illustrious past.

The ship holds a fleet of lightweight polar circle boats that hold eight people at a time to enable you to land at certain points to experience the wildlife. And what wildlife, too! Thousands of penguins in their rookeries, leopard seals patrolling the shore in search of a meal and killer whales haunting the ice floes, thus completing the food chain.  

And, if you need an even more expansive wildlife experience, there are other great opportunities in this part of the world. Either pre or post-cruise, Hurtigruten offer organised excursions to the amazing Tierra Del Fuego National Park. 

Or you can simply take a walk around Ushuaia, where you board the ship. The southern-most town in Argentina offers the unique Dolphin Gulls, with their bright red beaks and legs. A must for bird-watchers.

The relaxed style of life on board Fram led to a few distinct quirks. It quickly became an unwritten law that, if someone had started one of the many jigsaws on board and you happened to see where a piece fitted, you were duty bound to put it in its place. 

Many card and board games were up and running, with people who did not share a common language but did a sense of fun and laughter. These activities took place in the large lounge, which included free coffee, tea, hot chocolate and assorted pastries and cakes 24 hours a day. 

It also housed the information centre, where you could follow the ship’s progress with charts and get the latest information on activities and excursions. Adjoining it were the two lecture theatres and Internet suite with six computers available.

The Fram carried about 300 passengers on our trip, so we quickly got to know our fellow guests. There were no organised Broadway shows or films as you would expect on the larger cruise lines but we did get an excellent series of lectures on a variety of polar subjects, from penguins to the history of the region’s exploration.  

There were also a series of “reality show” entertainments, from the crew’s talent night and the expedition staff modelling clothes on sale in the shop, to a Q&A session with the Captain and other officers in the magnificent observation lounge.

The lectures were planned so the next day you actually visited the places discussed and saw the wildlife and places where the early explorers and scientists lived and worked. 

One of these was the British base at Port Lockroy, which is now run by The Antarctic Heritage Trust as a museum. It also has an excellent souvenir shop and post office. All the profits go to preserving historical huts in Antarctica.

Antarctica itself is full of surprises, from the mixed weather to the amazing array of activities on offer. One day, we found ourselves tobogganing down a steep slope at a Chilean research base; then, at Deception Island, the hardier souls were offered the chance to go swimming in the Antarctic Ocean. The island is actually the crater of an active volcano that the sea has broken into, so the warmer water inside allows you to go for a (very brief) dip!  

If you stay on land to investigate the old whaling station, walking through the 2ft-deep black volcanic causes steam to rise up and drift in front of you, mixing imperceptibly with the gently falling fresh snow.

Another alternative was to retire to one of the two outdoor Jacuzzis on the ship’s upper deck. Here, luxuriating in the hot water with a cold beer in hand while South Polar Skuas and Imperial Cormorants hovered above, looking down on penguins sitting on the ice flows, is a surreal experience I will never forget.

Ultimately, though, it is the large-scale experiences that leave you spellbound – the trips on to the mysterious, evocative islands and the chance to walk upon the Antarctic mainland itself.

All of the pictures, all of the films, all of the TV programmes, they simply do not do justice to this magnificent place. Awe inspiring only begins to describe it. Do go – you will never, ever regret it.

FRAM FACTFILE
Built: 2007    
Length: 376ft
Beam: 67ft
Passengers: 400
Berths: 254
Speed: 13 knots
Tonnage: 11,647

Hurtigruten runs eight distinct Antarctic voyages, plus the classic Norwegian coastal voyage, expeditions to Greenland and Spitsbergen and some European cruises.
The 15-day Weddell Sea Adventure leaves on January 21, 2012, and costs from £4,212 pounds (not including flights from the UK). Price includes: full-board cruise; transfers; return economy class flights between Ushuaia and Buenos Aires, including current taxes and surcharges; one night in Buenos Aires before and one night after the voyage including breakfast; and wind and waterproof jacket.

MORE INFO: In the UK, visit Hurtigruten or call 0800 008 6677. In the US, www.hurtigruten.us or 1800 323 7436.