The Spirit of Spitsbergen

The Svalbard archipelago is a land of wonders, a collection of islands that make up roughly the size of Britain, yet with only 2,000 full-time inhabitants. At the heart is the largest island, Spitsbergen – and the start of an incredible wilderness encounter.
The first of these wonders is arriving at the capital of Longyearbyen (it sounds really Scandinavian but it’s named after an American mining entrepreneur called John Longyear), where it’s just after midnight and is still in broad daylight. 

Welcome to the land of the Midnight Sun where, after arriving at our hotel and leaving our shoes on the shelves in the hallway (it’s considered impolite to wear them into people’s homes), we discovered the bars didn’t close until two.

We were soon chatting to the locals and discovered Longyearbyen is a tax-free zone so alcohol and other gods are not subject to Norway’s high prices. You could also stock up on winter clothing and buy some excellent souvenirs.  The town is also the first place you realise you really are about to go on an expedition as much as a cruise. Spitsbergen is located where the warmer currents of the Gulf Stream meet the cold air and water from the north, making it a biological hotspot for wildlife, which includes birds, seals, walruses, reindeer, Arctic foxes and the undisputed king of this land, the Polar Bear.  The town is surrounded by warning signs telling you not go beyond the limits without a gun or trained guide.

The next morning after shopping we had our arrival briefing with the expedition team in the hotel, and it was impressively geared towards us being visitors in the bear’s realm. We were instructed in what to do if our group had a close encounter with a bear, including a variety of strategies to frighten them off. Shooting them is only ever a final resort.

That afternoon we boarded the Fram, Hurtigruten’s specialist polar exploration vessel, to be equipped with our polar jackets. Then, in early evening, we slipped out of the harbour headed for the unique Russian mining township of Barentsburg. 
Many went ashore to enjoy a traditional folk song and dance evening in this unusual enclave of Mother Russia, but the committed wildlife spotters among us decided to stay on board and scan the sky and seas for the area’s specialities.

We were almost immediately rewarded with a school of some 30 Beluga whales swimming just in front of the ship. Looking for all the world like white jelly babies cavorting in the surf, they were once hunted nearly to extinction and to see them so early in the cruise told us this really was going be something special.

The Fram is a wonderful ship and we soon struck up friendships with people from a range of nationalities. The atmosphere is boosted by the surprisingly elegant standard and style, with open seating dining, casual dress at meal-times and a 24-hour cafe where free coffee, sandwiches and biscuits were always available. 

While there are no Broadway shows as with mainstream cruising, we did have excellent lectures and films on the wildlife and history, plus the crew’s hilarious entertainment night and fashion show. The gym had all the usual equipment and, if you wanted to impress your friends, you could have your picture taken in one of the two outside Jacuzzis while the snow-topped mountains drifted slowly by. 

For the seriously hardy, you could also try your hand at swimming in the Arctic Ocean on one of the landings. Those brave enough to try received a certificate to prove it!  

Landing rules are not as stringent as in the Antarctic but we did at times have to walk through disinfectant before leaving the ship. Most of the landings are “wet,” which means you have to wade through the surf for a short distance, so you need to bring waterproof trousers. Some brought walking boots but there was also the option of hiring thermally-lined Wellies for the week – very useful indeed. 

What is most staggering about Spitsbergen, though, is the array of scenery, from ice-capped mountains and huge glaciers to mile upon mile of flat tundra. Deep fjords and pebbled beaches suddenly give way to cliff faces that looked as if they have been plucked from the deserts of Arizona.

Very little grows here – no trees, a few plants and mosses – but the wildlife remains impressive. Our first Polar Bear went swimming past the ship and we saw others on land, too, as well as a constant stream of whales around the ship. Anything spotted is always announced over the tannoy, ensuring we always had plenty of notice of a new encounter.

Under the glow of the Midnight Sun, the ship visited Moffen above the 80° latitude (everyone gets a certificate to say you have reached this far north). This crescent-shaped, half-mile long island is no more than a few inches above sea level and the ship is bound by Arctic regulations not to approach closer than 300 metres.

Lying huddled together on the pebbled island were some hundred or so walruses, many of whom came swimming out to the ship to satisfy their curiosity. Photographing these magnificent animals in the orange glow of the Arctic sun was yet another wonder of the cruise, but you had to wonder how these animals survived in heavy seas.

Landings were made in Polar Circle boats holding eight people and specially ice strengthened. Ashore, we were free to explore at our own pace, with occasional group landings where we would stay with an expedition staff member. You are encouraged to pick up any litter found on the beach as part of the “Clean up Svalbard” campaign.  

But this cruise is also about the history of the region, from the early whalers and miners to Polar explorers. Any evidence of human activity before 1946 is now officially protected, with strict access rules, and we found ourselves walking in places where Nansen and Amundsen had once passed.  

At Ny Alesund, the world’s most northerly settlement, the mast still stands where Amundsen moored his airship at the start of his quest to fly over the North Pole. This small settlement consists mostly of scientists from some 15 countries conducting studies into the biology and geology of the area and global weather changes. 

In some places we were dive-bombed by Arctic Terns while others produced close encounters with wild Svalbard Reindeer (much shorter legged than their Norwegian mainland cousins). 

But there were some upsetting moments, too. As we approached the beach on Bamesbu the next day, we noticed a long white line above the shoreline. This turned out to be the skeletons of some 550 Beluga whales slaughtered here in the 19th century.
The expedition nature of the voyage was highlighted at another island, where I was looking forward to seeing the rare Little Auk nesting cliffs. However, the swell was so heavy it would have been dangerous to land and we had to move on. Being so far north also meant Internet and mobile phone communication were non-existent for much of the time.

The weather here can change dramatically and quickly as this is only just short of the Arctic pack ice. We experienced overcast grey days as well as dazzling blue cloudless skies, including for our final evening aboard, which featured a wonderful on-deck barbecue. 

As far as the great frozen wildernesses of the world go, this is right alongside Antarctica for spectacular cruising. But it also has the great benefit of being a lot closer!

Hurtigruten’s Arctic Agenda

Hurtigruten offer three Arctic itineraries for 2012. The ‘Climate Voyage’ starts in Iceland and then explores the west coast of Spitsbergen (8 days from £1,888 per person), departing July 19. ‘In The land of the Polar Bear’ offers a circumnavigation of Spitsbergen (8 days from £2,741pp), departing August 23 and 30. The ‘Explorer Voyage’ cruises along the west coast of Spitsbergen (8 days from £2,221pp), departing July 26 and Aug 2, 9 and 16. 

Price includes full board basis, wind & water-resistant jacket, landings in Polar Circle boats and lectures by Expedition Team. Not included: international flights, luggage handling, optional excursions and gratuities.

MORE INFO: in the UK, call 0800 008 6677 or visit Hurtigruten Cruises; in the US, 1877 849 3414 or www.hurtigruten.us.