Touring the Ancient Civilisations

Steve Stern completes a full exploration of the Aegean with his essential guide to all the main ports of call
 
The Western Mediterranean may boast the most iconic destinations in the region – the Cote d’Azure, Costa Amalfitano and Costa de Sol – but it’s hard to argue that the Eastern portion isn’t the more historic. And, although being at sea is my passion, for once I decided to forego the more exotic and scenic in favour of a little cultural heritage. The ancient civilisations of Greece and Turkey were calling!

It is a challenge, though. In order to take in the maximum number of ports of call, I booked back-to-back cruises. The first, on impressive new Seabourn Odyssey, departed from Istanbul and terminated in Athens. The second, in the more contrasting confines of the Wind Star, commenced from Athens and brought me back to Istanbul. Rather convenient, and a perfect way to sum up the region.
 
The 32,000-ton, 450-passenger Odyssey is Seabourn’s latest vessel and the first of three identical new-builds, and is more than three times larger than the other trio in the fleet. For only her third voyage, I was amazed at how quickly the officers and crew had got their act together.

And, after touring the ship, I had no doubt this was the most ingeniously designed and most tastefully appointed ship I have seen. My 300sq ft Veranda Suite included every facility, feature and amenity offered on the other three Seabourn vessels, plus a 65sq ft veranda. Public areas, the spa, entertainment and dining venues are also greatly expanded from the original three ships.   

But, although much larger than her sister ships, she carries only twice the number of passengers, boasts the highest space-per-guest ratio in the industry and still exudes an intimate environment.  The ship is ultra-comfortable, ultra-luxurious and offers impeccable service and outstanding cuisine.
 
My second ship, the unique 5,350-ton, 148-passenger sailing vessel Wind Star, is one of Windstar Cruises’ two smaller vessels. The largest vessel, the Wind Surf, carries 312 passengers and is three times the size. The emphasis on Wind Star was on visits to interesting ports, water sports, intimate dining and informality. The environment is super-casual and laid back; passengers do not have to dress up and there is little regimentation.
 
The following were the main historical, cultural and tourist friendly points of interest in the ports we visited aboard the two ships.
 
Istanbul
 
This is a city of legend and history, where East and West meet, stretching along both the European and Asiatic sides of the Bosporus, which connects the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea. Both ancient Istanbul (the old city) and the modern face are rich in historic points of interest, and both are located on the European side, but are separated by the Bosporus and connected by bridges and water ferries.
 
In the historic old city, one of the most important sites is the fabled Topkapi Museum which, from 1461 until 1846, was both the Sultan’s private residence and the headquarters of the Ottoman Empire. Here you can wander through the courtyard and numerous buildings that house such treasures as the imperial jewels, costumes, weapons and the 300-room imperial harem.

Nearby is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, commonly referred to as the Blue Mosque because of the shining cobalt tiles in the prayer hall. To gain entrance you have to remove your shoes and make a contribution. Across the parkway is the equally fabulous Hagia Sophia. This edifice was commissioned by Emperor Justinian in the 6th Century as a Christian church, thereafter altered to a Mosque and later turned into a museum, most notable for its magnificent architecture, important mosaics and unusual chandeliers.  

A short walk away, you can have a typical local experience at the Cemberlitas Hammami, the most famous public Turkish bath in Istanbul. Ample time should be allowed for your visit to the world famous Grand Bazaar, one of the most distinctive shopping areas in the world. The covered bazaar was built after the Ottoman conquest in 1456 as the city’s main market.  

Today it is a labyrinth of seemingly endless vaulted arcades and passageways lined with merchants selling leatherwear, gold and silver jewellery, carpets, onyx and souvenirs. You can browse through hundreds of shops. But, if you indicate the slightest interest in an item, the proprietor will follow you around for 10 minutes shouting out reductions in price!
 
Dikili

This Turkish town offers little interest in itself but ships frequently stop here for tours to modern Bergama and the ruins of ancient Pergamon. This ancient Greek city dates back to the 3rd Century BC and was built on steep mountain terraces. The ruins consist of an acropolis, several temples, the Asklepion (an ancient medical centre dedicated to the God of healing), a 2nd Century temple dedicated to Egyptian gods and goddesses and later converted to a basilica, and an archeological museum.  

Kusadasi

You will find some wonderful bargains for quality leather, hand-woven silk rugs and fine jewellery in this summer resort town, as well as designer knock-off watches, purses and shoes that can pass for the real thing. But the main reason this is such a popular cruise stop is to allow for visits to the magnificently preserved ruins at Ephesus.

At one time the capital of the Roman province of Asia, no other archeological site can provide a better sense of what an ancient Greco-Roman town actually looked like. The long Arcadian Way leads to the Great Theater seating 20,000, more recently reconstructed for modern music and art festivals.  

Proceeding through the town, along the mile-long marble road, you can visit the Temple of Hadrian, Library of Celsius, the Odeon, the brothel, the Byzantine baths, gymnasium, the public toilets (these are a hoot), the site of the Temple of Artemis (considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world), the upper Agora market and the last abode of Mary. We enjoyed a special treat when Seabourn offered a complimentary evening cocktail party and concert at the Great Theater.

Bodrum

Situated on a peninsula, this is a popular Turkish holiday resort, with a picturesque yacht harbour boasting pleasant outdoor cafes and streets bustling with small shops selling carpets, leatherwear, jewellery, sponges and local artwork.  

You will be able to walk to the medieval Castle of St Peter, also known as Bodrum Castle, built by the Knights of Rhodes. The inner castle houses the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archeology containing a myriad objects discovered by submarine explorers. Nearby is the Tomb of Mausolus built between 353 and 350 BC and considered another of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The word “mausoleum” was derived from this structure, meaning “a grand tomb.”
 
Athens

When touring the Greek capital, everyone’s first stop is the Acropolis, the symbol of the glory of ancient Greece. You can climb the marble steps to the entrance, or Propylea, a masterpiece of classical architecture. Continue up to the Parthenon, the most perfect example of classical architecture in the world. Looking down from the Acropolis, you can see the two ancient theaters, the Greek Theatre of Dionysus and the Roman Odeon of Herod Atticus, now restored and used for concerts and classical plays.  

From the Acropolis, you can descend the hill to the Plaka area where there are numerous souvenir shops and charming garden restaurants. Here you can sample typical local fare like moussaka, souvlaki, tsatsiki, Greek salad and baklava, washing it all down with retsina, the local (dry) wine.  

Other “can’t miss” sites of interest include Mount Lycabettus, the tallest point in Athens, which affords panoramic views down to the Acropolis and out to the Saronic Gulf; Syntagma Square (Constitution Square), site of the former Royal Palace now the Parliament, the National Gardens, National Archeological Museum (and continuous traffic!); the Olympic Stadium; and Hadrian's Arch.
Santorini

This is the favourite Greek island of many cruisers. Thira (sometimes referred to as Fira), the capital, is perched on a rocky precipice offering spectacular views of the harbour and neighbouring islands. It is an extremely picturesque village and major tourist centre, overflowing with shops and roof-top restaurants, as well as white-washed houses and small hotels clinging to the steep cliffs.

Your ship will tender passengers to the quay where they will have a choice of ascending to the town by cable car or on the back of a donkey. Wishing a bit of adventure, I hopped astride a donkey and, with a “High Ho Silver,” commenced zig-zagging up the steep incline. Suffice it to say, it was a white-knuckle experience as I constantly felt I’d be tossed over the low-rise walls that lined the paths. The smell of the donkeys and donkey drivers did little to enhance the ride, either!

But, once on top, you will enjoy a delightful day taking in the breathtaking panorama and meandering along paths and alleyways, browsing the numerous boutiques, jewellery stores and souvenir shops. Tours are offered to nearby towns, to the volcano on the island of Nea Kameni, to the Koutsogiannopoulos Museum Winery for a wine tasting and the archeological site of Akrotiri, sometimes referred to as the Greek Pompeii.  

Nafplion

Greece’s first capital after the War of Independence in the 1820s, this is located in the Peloponnesian area and is best known for its imposing hill-top fortresses, Acronauplia and Palamidi. It is a major tourist destination in its own right, and attracts many to the numerous walking streets lined with a mélange of shops, wine stores and small restaurants located along the harbour.

The town is also a base for tours to ancient Mycenae, site of Europe’s oldest monumental structure, the famous Lion’s Gate, Citadel and royal cemetery; the ruins of Epidaurus; and ancient Corinth with its many archeological wonders.

Mykonos

The St Tropez of the Greek islands, this port is most memorable for its white-washed buildings, windmills and its medieval quarter. Here, pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus and trailing green pepper trees form a sharp contrast to the dazzling white two and three-storey homes and churches with their red and blue doors and domes.

The harbour is impressive and is usually filled with tourists from all parts of the world exploring the chic cafes, bars, souvenir shops and designer boutiques. Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to town (about a 40-minute walk or a 10-minute bus ride), offers all of the usual beach facilities, as well as watersports, taverns and small shops.

If time allows you can visit one of the colourful topless and nude beaches at Paradise, Super Paradise and Elia, located on the southern coast of the island and accessible by motor launch.
 
Rhodes

The Old City, adjacent to the harbour, is the principal attraction of the island city of Rhodes. Surrounded by the castle walls, you can wander the maze of narrow cobbled streets lined with shops and tavernas, working your way up to the grand 13th Century Castle of the Knights of St John which also houses the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes.

Along the way, you can make side tours to the quaint Jewish Synagogue and the Turkish Suleiman Mosque. If time allows, you can take a bus or taxi across the island, past small villages and olive orchards to the town of Lindos. Here you can ride donkeys to the ancient acropolis atop a scenic hill – a far tamer experience than the hair-raising donkey-ride on Santorini!
 
Conclusion

I had the experience of enjoying our explorations on two highly different vessels. But I thoroughly enjoyed both ships and fully accomplished my goal of immersing myself in the cultures and ancient civilisations of Greece and Turkey. I highly recommend it.