In The Wake Of The Queen

Lacking a royal yacht these days, the Queen has twice chartered Hebridean Princess for holidays around the deserted beaches and tiny islands of north-west Scotland. And it’s easy to see why.

Having started in 1964 as Columba, one of the Caledonian MacBrayne fleet of car ferries, this boutique little gem was converted to cruising and rechristened by the Duchess of York in 1989. She retains much of her older styling and guests enjoy this; the wooden decks, lots of glistening brass – including the old-fashioned brass engine room signaller – are all still pristine.
 
The former car deck, as well as cabins, affords space for a small gym and storage for speedboats, Zodiacs, bicycles and racks of life jackets. The boats are much used for beach landings in the remoter islands and in other ports she shares jetties with her more modern ferry counterparts.

Hebridean Princess has often been called a floating country house. With a maximum of 50 passengers in 30 cabins (and a high proportion of single rooms), a house party atmosphere soon develops, aided by circulated guest lists and a roughly 60 per cent repeat guest factor, as well as a lack of any formal entertainment. 

As Chief Purser David Indge comments: “They are all like-minded people and, for them, the art of conversation is not dead.” Apart from the daily excursions, guests can ask to play bridge, go fishing or take a tour on the speedboat. 

There are no keys to the cabins, though individual safes are provided. Guests prefer it this way. The cabins vary in size and decor but an underlying theme is rich brocaded drapes and padded headboards on beds piled with cushions and brass wall clocks. 

Upper deck cabins have large picture windows which can be partially opened. There is no air conditioning but each cabin has a powerful radiator and in-bathroom heated towel rail – useful for drying laundry. 

Iron, ironing board, trouser press and tea and coffee making equipment are neatly stowed and fresh milk is placed in a fridge that is also stocked with complimentary soft drinks. Four cabins have secluded balconies and seven have bathrooms with gold-plated taps.

Passengers are advised to bring sturdy walking shoes, non-slip shoes for the decks and warm, weather-proof clothing to combat the often volatile weather patterns in the area. The cruising style contrasts walks on the wild side along pristine white beaches, clambering over high cliffs following sheep tracks, or visiting castles and gardens, with champagne on tap from the bar back on board. 

Itineraries can also be flexible according to weather conditions. On my voyage, we were supposed to see Barra and other southern Outer Hebrides islands but a force nine gale blew up and the captain decided to head across the Sea of the Hebrides for the shelter of Craignure on Mull, where we spent the day. 

This also meant missing out on Iona and Ulva but no one complained. It was all part of the adventure and, instead, we saw the splendid north side of Jura with its white beaches and Colonsay with its gardens, palm trees and black-faced sheep feeding round the harbour, with a chance to use the ship’s bicycles to explore.

On the other hand, glorious weather at the start of the voyage had favoured us. We sailed from Oban, the ship’s home port, literally with the sunset silhouetting the islands. A small school of porpoises leapt out of the water alongside while guests lingered on deck drinking Pimms and nibbling canapés. 

With such good weather, we headed straight to Muck, which is not always an easy landing. The Zodiacs shuttled passengers ashore while the crew prepared a dreamy beach barbecue and passengers walked around the island collecting small souvenirs from shell beach. 

The next day our luck held to visit the Shiant islands out from Lewis. Another beach landing between steep cliffs afforded walks along the shore for bird watchers or up on the cliffs, where one could hear the sound of seals on the rocks below. 
Adam Nicholson, who owns these deserted, protected islands, wrote a book called Sea Storm about them and copies can be seen in his small, unlocked sturdy stone cottage where one can sign the visitors book and admire his simple way of life without electricity or running water.

The Zodiacs – such an essential part of exploration here – cater well for the mainly elderly clientele (no children under nine are permitted) and are fitted with special boarding platforms with rails that make them easy to use. The centre is lined with seats – an improvement on the usual bum-wetting sitting on the sides! 

Hebridean Princess is promoting its Footloose tours where there is more walking involved and longer stays on some islands so a picnic lunch can be taken with guides for the walkers. Ours was very much a walking cruise with guide Ted Heath, a native of Tobermory, who has a wealth of local history and anecdotes, with a quick eye for wildlife – including puffins, deer, whales, seals and sea eagles (one intrepid passenger even swam among seals off Jura and said it was warmer than Cornwall earlier in the season). 

The guides on each cruise give talks each evening over coffee in the Tiree Lounge, a forward area with large fireplace and the ship’s only ‘entertainment,’ apart from a nightly movie on the cabin TV system.

Where appropriate, excursions are arranged by bus to castles, gardens, distilleries, historic or craft centres. When an itinerary is changed, the staff are swift to lay on something for guests to do, even if on Colonsay it meant juggling the school bus run with taking passengers to see the noted gardens!

A single one-sided information sheet outlines the daily programme. No one is pressured to do anything and can stay onboard all day. As well as the Tiree Lounge, there is the cosy Conservatory with cane chairs, potted plants and large fruit bowl to pick at, the Look Out Bar and Library, all with free wi-fi facility. 

If the day is fine, the aft promenade deck, with its Skye Bar is the place for drinks and sitting and reading. If it’s chilly, there’s a pile of tartan rugs to snuggle under. The upper deck has wind-shielded and comfortably padded lounger chairs. The Skye deck was also the sunset setting for the two gala evening captain’s champagne receptions. Everyone was formally dressed, several officers in their kilts.

Hebridean Princess anchors for dinner and overnight, and the 7.30am engine start-up acts as a wake-up call. Breakfast can be Continental style in the cabin but most head to the Columba Restaurant for the excellent buffet – everything from fresh honeycomb to strawberries and pineapple, cereals and croissants. Porridge, of course, is available and hot dishes such as kippers, a full Scottish platter and specials of pancakes and berries, smoked salmon and scrambled egg. 

By 9.30am most people are off ashore working up an appetite for lunch. A light sandwich alternative is offered for those not indulging in dishes like fish and chips, Hebridean fish cake and retro puddings like Spotted Dick, Queen of Puddings and Tiramisu. 

On a couple of days there was a buffet, the first based round local whole salmon with prawns, smoked salmon and organic salmon additions, the second featuring a gammon joint. On each occasion the chief purser donned his apron and carved and served. 

David Indge, formerly with Princess and P&O Cruises, is an excellent master of ceremonies, keeping everyone smiling, daily checking each dining table for feedback and remembering everything from forgotten toothbrushes to wake-up calls for passengers. 

The dining tables are mainly for couples, the chairs turned at an angle to the windows so no one has their back to the room. There are two tables of eight for officers and singles. Meals showcase local produce with a goodly accent on fish – lobster bisque, Cullen Skink, Colonsay oysters, scallops, North Sea turbot – and Argyll beef, veal and venison, rack of lamb and guinea fowl. 

After desserts, from Chocolate Nemesis to Coconut Panna Cotta, there is a cheese platter served, if wished, with a glass of port. The portions are light and well presented so there is no feeling of being over burdened with food. With the meals, red and white wines are served. Premium wines are also available for purchase.

For the farewell dinner, there is an oat-crusted haggis solemnly addressed by the guide, with a wee dram served to all!
And did it all feel suitably royal? You bet.

HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS FACTFILE

This year, Hebridean Princess extends its itineraries to include the Northern Isles, Scotland’s east coast, France, the Channel and Scilly Islands, England’s south coast, Wales and Ireland, as well as the regular west Scotland cruises. 

Longer 9 and 10-night cruises will be available. A 7-night cruise will cost from around £5,090 for a single cabin, from £3,400-£6,790 in different grades of double cabin; £7,130-£7,640 in a cabin with private balcony; and £7,810 for the Isle of Arran suite. All prices are per person.