Swan Goes Back To The Future

Swan Hellenic Cruises prides itself on maintaining the traditions that its founders, WF and RK Swan, set out nearly 60 years ago. These can be summed up as providing well-planned and thought-provoking itineraries around the world, with the added ingredient of stimulating guest speakers to bring the sights to life.

However, the company is also looking to the future, as well as the past. This year, Minerva exchanged its home port of Dover for Portsmouth, and this winter will see the ship undergo a major multi-million pound upgrade to provide a vastly improved cruise experience when she sets sail again in March.

I joined Minerva as she left her new home for the last time this year, heading south to spend her final few weeks in and around the Mediterranean before her refit.

The itinerary was entitled A Spanish Summer but, after the rain in Spain had drenched passengers visiting Santiago de Compostela, Captain Giovanni Biasutti described it more as an English Summer cruise. But the sun soon shone and, as we made our way to the Straits of Gibraltar via stops at Oporto and Cadiz, on-deck dining soon became the norm.

The crew responded with alfresco barbeques and entertainment, all under the watchful eye of excellent Cruise Director Paul Rutterford. Paul had been drafted in at short notice for his first stint in the post and did such a wonderful job he received a huge round of applause from the passengers at the end of the cruise.

For some reason, this itinerary didn’t sell out until very late in the day so there was a slightly more mixed clientele than normal, with more Minerva first-timers on board. However, everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves. 

The ambience on board is that of a friendly, comfortable country house hotel. During days at sea, the 320 or so passengers spread out around the open decks or made use of the excellent Library with its well-stocked shelves and comfortable armchairs.
The two bars were popular meeting places and, for meals, there was either the main dining room or the more informal Veranda restaurant. Both have open seating – you can dine when you like, and with whom you like.

The food is good, with a wide choice of dishes. And, if there is nothing you fancy at dinner in the main dining room, they can always serve salmon or steak as a reliable back-up.

Service on board was excellent. On our first night we popped into the Wheeler Bar for a drink after dinner. A waitress came to serve us, looked at my wife and not only remembered her favourite drink from the previous year, but also the type of glass she preferred and the fact she didn’t want ice. Amazing.

Staff and crew are always extremely friendly, and strong bonds are formed with passengers, many of whom are regulars – Swans, as they are affectionately known.

Guest speakers on this particular cruise included popular Radio 4 Today presenter James Naughtie. His after-dinner talks proved extremely popular and his anecdote about Peter Mandelson changing his trousers while James interviewed him brought the house down.

One of the pleasant aspects of a Minerva cruise is that the guest speakers, however eminent, are also highly approachable and all mixed comfortably with the passengers during the cruise.

Otherwise the entertainment was low key, featuring a cocktail pianist, an excellent jazz band, a musical duo, wine workshops and that old favourite, the crew show. If it’s full-blown West End productions you’re looking for, you’ll be disappointed.

Our itinerary took us to Malaga, where we spent a wonderful day at nearby Granada’s superb Alhambra Palace. However, Malaga was also the unlikely setting for two dramatic highlights of the cruise. As we arrived, the captain came over the public address system to recount the adventures of the early hours of the morning.

Apparently the ship had picked up a distress signal from four men in an inflatable craft that was out in the Med and sinking. Minerva responded promptly, found the boat and secured it safely to the side of the ship until a lifeboat arrived and took the men on board.

Later in the day, as we were leaving the Spanish port, large bush fires broke out on the surrounding hills and we watched as fire planes and helicopters dived into the bay to scoop up sea water to drop onto the flames.

Cartagena in Spain proved a pleasant surprise. An evening in port meant we had more time to explore this vibrant city, complete with Roman ruins and impressive architecture. Cartagena was also hosting a section of the Audi Med Cup yachting regatta, and the place was buzzing.

Taking the opportunity to dine ashore, we were delighted when – half-way through our paella – a huge carnival procession danced its way past our table. The city partied into the night, giving us a memorable midnight sailaway.

Over the next few days we made our way across the Mediterranean, calling at Mahon, Alghero and Calvi – all delightful destinations. We took full advantage of the laid-back ports to relax, before reaching Livorno and tackling Florence.

This World Heritage site attracts millions of visitors each year, and most of them seemed to be in the city the day we arrived. However, the palaces, bridges, statues, art and culture make it all worthwhile – the place simply oozes history. So we spent our last full day walking miles while soaking up the culture, before heading back to the ship to pack and make the most of our last night on board.

Back on Minerva, we were greeted with the formal news our much-loved ship was to receive much-needed improvements via an extensive refit. The present cabins are comfortable but small, so it was welcome to hear the upgrade will include many larger cabins, as well as many more balconies and a new forward observation lounge.

Brochure prices usually start at around £1,795 for two weeks in an inside cabin, but watch out for special offers and discounts. Also, the price includes all trips and tips, flights and transfers, and often wine as well on the formal nights. Plus, you get to meet and listen to world-renowned speakers who are experts in their respective fields.

As usual, Swan delivered an excellent cruise experience, and I can’t wait to be back on board next year to sample the delights of a new, improved Minerva.

MINERVA FACTFILE

Built: 1996, currently being refurbished 
Tonnage: 12,500
Length: 498ft
Beam: 66ft
Draft: 19ft
Speed: 15 knots
Passengers: 350
Crew: 160
Passenger decks: 6
Registry: Bahamas

ITINERARIES: Spring, Mediterranean and Black Sea; summer, Northern Europe, British Isles and Med; autumn, Med and Black Sea; winter, Middle East, Red Sea, Gulf of Arabia, India and Far East.
MORE INFO: call 0800 008 6677 or visit Swan Hellenic.