19 July 2011

Total Eclipse

Editor Simon Veness runs the rule over Celebrity’s latest Solstice-class vessel and assesses whether this is the new gold standard of big-ship cruising.


Of all the mainstream lines, Celebrity Cruises have done most to advance the cause of large-scale premium cruising. From Century in 1995 to Millennium in 2000 and then Celebrity Solstice in 2008, they have pushed the envelope of size-versus-style to the maximum.

With the exception of a handful minor glitches – a few drops in cuisine standard here, the occasional service lapse there – they have pulled it off with immense aplomb. And the advent of the three-ship Solstice-class vessels (four this July with Celebrity Silhouette) was widely hailed as the biggest increase in pure style since the debut of the Century.

Fittingly, both that 1995 series and the latest trio all hail from the Meyer-Werft shipyard in Papenburg, Germany, which has been the source of much cruise sophistication in the past 20 years.

So I thought it was time to run an editorial eye over Celebrity’s latest offering, which will see all four Solstice vessels in European waters this summer, once Silhouette enjoys her inauguration in Hamburg on July 21.

I caught up with the Eclipse in Miami for her standard 7-night eastern Caribbean route this spring, when the object wasn’t so much to enjoy some Caribbean sunshine as give this 122,000-ton, 2,850-passenger ship a serious once-over.

The first thing to note is she is as out of place in the hectic, outdated port of Miami as Concorde at Biggin Hill. It’s like taking a Bentley to Tesco’s; you simply don’t want your premium passengers fighting their way through the mass-market jostle of a harbour-side operation that is designed to take as much money off everyone as possible (how else do you justify $20-a-day car parking when it costs only $8-$15 at the nearby airport?).

But, once inside the capacious interior of Eclipse, it is a whole different world. Yes, this is a big ship – it feels every inch of 1,033ft long if your cabin is at one end and the dining room is at the other! – but it never feels crowded and the huge array of public rooms provides a magnificent array of choice, from dining to entertainment and all points in between. The bar options alone are dizzying, with fully 13 locations, yet that only begins to describe the ‘Solstice-class difference.’

Because this is a world of stylish design and modish sophistication, with subtle colour palettes, elegant soft furnishings and no sign of that modern bugbear, mistaking glitz for glamour and over-burdening the décor with multiple elements when one or two will do. It borrows more from the classic era of yesteryear than the contemporary styling we’re used to seeing from NCL, Royal Caribbean and Princess, and it is all the better for it.

Of course, there is plenty that is modern, too, notably in the 3-storey Eclipse Theatre, Fortunes Casino, Quasar nightclub, the extensive children’s areas and the blissful AquaSpa. Café al Bacio is a thoroughly modern coffee shop and the retail opportunities are suitably high fashion in their scope.

Eclipse also comes complete with plenty of stateroom style. Choosing a room on Sky Deck meant this had the full range of Concierge perks, such as early embarkation and disembarkation, welcome aboard sparkling wine and flowers, and daily fresh fruit and hors d’oevres, plus an extended room service menu, Frette bathrobes, a pillow menu to go with superbly comfy duvet and mattress, and a special massaging showerhead.

The balcony was roomy enough for breakfast and the general comfort levels – notably the large, flatscreen TV and sofa area, which provided plenty of room to stretch out when in the cabin – were all well into the premium range, if not pushing luxury territory.

Of course, a ship this large does have its drawbacks. Getting around is sometimes a challenge and, with the array of alternative dining on offer, you need to plan your meals in advance in most instances.

Celebrity’s new Select Dining, which allows you to visit the main dining room any time from 6-9.30pm (as an alternative to traditional Fixed sittings at 6 and 8.30pm), offers even more flexibility, but also requires a little forethought as it can still get busy early in the evening.

It is the dining, though, that remains Celebrity’s watchword, both in the main restaurant – the gorgeous Moonlight Sonata – and in the eight alternatives; nine for those in the AquaClass accommodations, which have speciality spa cuisine restaurant Blu as their dedicated dining room.

It’s worth going through the full selection to highlight just how much choice – and quality – is at the heart of the Solstice-class appeal.

Murano offers contemporary French cuisine in a beautifully understated setting, with a set menu featuring pan-seared foie gras, lobster bisque, caviar, Dover sole, Filet Mignon and Muscovy Duck Breast, also available with a five-course wine pairing.

Tuscan Grille is the Italian showcase, a wonderfully evocative night-time setting right aft on Deck Five, boasting a menu that bristles with traditional favourites given a healthy contemporary twist (like the superb Kobe-style meatballs and Filet Mignon Rustico, with horseradish-mash potatoes). This was my favourite for that special ‘evening out.’

Qsine is Celebrity’s much-trumpeted nouveau dining experience, an unstructured multi-plate meal where diners are encouraged to ‘experiment’ with a novel menu that includes ‘Sushi Lollipops,’ Lobster Escargot, ‘Chitinis’ (Chinese morsels served in martini glasses), ‘Disco Shrimp’ and ‘Popcorn’ fish and chips.

The ‘menu’ is an iPad and everything is served up in different ways, from paper cups to elaborate steel towers, and it is all designed for sharing, so the more you have at your table, the merrier (albeit there are still plenty of tables for two).

The food varies from the hum-drum – fish and chips, sliders – to the more typical – an Indian platter, filet mignon – to positively avant garde items like Lava Crab (Alaskan king crab with sweet yellow corn and scallions) and Salmon Cataplana (in a saffron broth with tomato ravioli Chorizo sausage), in 20 combinations, plus five desserts.

It is a kaleidoscopic dining experience with plenty of novelty value. Celebrity haven’t quite ironed the concept out yet – the service was spotty and the menu needs a LOT of explaining – but it is a fun experience and well worth trying.

Additionally, lunch and dining is available at Bistro On Five, a combination creperie and sandwich speciality for those looking to dine a bit lighter than the full-course fare available elsewhere.

All of the above come with a supplement, from $5 at the Bistro to $30 at Qsine, Murano and Tuscan Grille, but there are still the all-day options of the Oceanview Café – the buffet diner, with a casual dinner served from 6-9.30pm and late-night selections from 10pm-1am – the health-conscious AquaSpa Café (breakfast and lunch only), the Mast Grill (11am-6pm) and Café al Bacio (speciality coffees, teas, pastries and sandwiches; 11am-11pm).

The AquaSpa Café came as a really fresh and inviting alternative, especially for salads and light bites, although it could do with a few more tables as its popularity led to limited space at several meal-times.

If dining is the ship’s high point, the entertainment at the plush Eclipse Theater varied a bit, from the tried-and-trusted (but rather ho-hum) song-and-dance musicals to a completely captivating Cirque-style show called Eclipse that showcased some amazing acrobatic and gymnastic skills, all set to an impressive musical backing.

Other highlights were the singing of West End special guest star Lindsay Hamilton, the comedy of Michele Balan, the a cappella group Sound Decision and the cool jazz sounds of Tony Viviano Quartet who, along with the soothing guitar of Jonny Mantra, added a superb late-night vibe to the wonderfully evocative Ensemble Lounge, arguably the ship’s top spot for pre or post-dinner drinks.

Cruise traditionalists will love the airy aerie of the Sky Observation Lounge, up on Lido Deck, while the Cellar Masters should be the ideal hangout for wine enthusiasts, with its enomatic serving system.

Service, under the eagle eye of long-time Hotel Director Simon Weir, remains sharp and polished, with the line’s demand for personable as well as efficient shining through in areas like the stateroom staff, main dining room and bar staff. While some lines find it hard to find enough of the right quality staff, Celebrity are hooked in to a steady and reliable supply.

So, what can passengers on any of the four Solstice-class vessels expect this summer (and autumn)?

Well, this is definitely big-ship territory, with the increase from the 91,000-ton Millennium quartet adding 31,000 tons of volume and an extra 900 passengers, and decreasing the space ratio slightly from 46.6 (Millennium-class) to 42.8 (Solstice-class), but that difference is extremely hard to discern with so many extra public room options and still highly generous stateroom space.

The elegance of much of the design is easy on the eye and should appeal to traditionalists, especially with the proper observation lounge and many small-scale hideaways, while the innovatory value of the Lawn Club, Qsine and Celebrity iLounge (full of Apple products and learning programmes) continues to provide the 21st century touch.

The lack of a proper promenade deck is a bit of a surprise, but the whole Lawn Club complex, with its extensive grassed area and superb viewing, helps to make up for it.

All in all, this is a stylish and immensely gratifying way to cruise; a real touch of class in a large-scale format. If you like your sailing with plenty of choice but more than a touch of tradition, this is definitely for you.

CELEBRITY ECLIPSE FACTFILE

Maiden Voyage: July 2010
Tonnage: 122,000
Length: 1,033ft
Beam: 121ft
Draft: 27ft
Speed: 24 knots
Passengers: 2,850
Crew: 1,246
Passenger decks: 13
Registry: Malta

ITINERARIES: summer and autumn, 8, 14 and 16-night Mediterranean and N Europe cruises from Southampton; transatlantic; winter and spring, 7-night east and west Caribbean cruises from Miami.

MORE INFO: in the UK, call 0844 493 2043 or visit www.celebritycruises.co.uk; in the US, 0800 647 2251 or www.celebritycruises.com.

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