I recently had the pleasure of joining a rail-and-sail tour with Great Rail Journeys. Following a train ride from Oslo, we reached the medieval capital of Bergen, where Havila Capella awaited.

Over the next six days, we sailed northwards along the Norwegian coast, covering over a thousand nautical miles and crossing the Arctic Circle. Between calls at ports such as Ålesund, Trondheim and Tromsø, I had time to get to grips with everything this 124-metre ship has to offer.

My expectations

Havila Capella Image — Havila Capella | Credit: Amaris Proctor

Havila’s ships only started sailing in 2021, making the family-owned business the ‘new kid on the block’. That said, it’s made a name for itself far beyond the Norwegian coast due to a series of sustainability-led design decisions.

Notably, Havila’s ships, including Capella, can cruise for up to four hours with zero emissions thanks to massive battery packs. These are charged using clean hydropower and then used in combination with liquefied natural gas and biogas.

While I was impressed by the eco-conscious ethos, I was interested to see if Havila’s ships were as cutting-edge when it came to guest experience.

My opinion in a nutshell

Havila Voyages in Situ 1 — Havila Capella in Honningsvåg in winter | Credit: Amaris Proctor

Havila Capella won’t be for everyone. In many ways, it’s very unlike other ocean-going cruise ships. There are no flashy amenities here: no sprawling casinos, waterparks, or endless dining venues.

Instead, it has an understated elegance that speaks to its primary purpose: to complement the landscapes and seascapes that guests come from far and wide to experience. If what you want is a comfortable, welcoming place to search for the aurora borealis, watch the snow fall or simply recharge after a day of exploring, it will suit you well.

My favourite bits
The eco credentials: Driven by smart design moves and thoughtful onboard practices.
Northern Lights announcements: Direct to your cabin, so you don’t have to worry about missing them.
The saunas and hot tubs: A welcome addition all year long.
The Arctic Circle ceremony: A playful, theatrical nod to Norse mythology that made crossing the Arctic Circle feel genuinely special.

Style & character

Havila Capella takes its name from one of the most important celestial bodies in the northern sky. While to the naked eye Capella appears to be a single star, it’s in fact four locked together. For centuries, it was a guiding light for sailors.

I discovered this as I embarked the ship, which is dotted with panels sharing facts about both the vessel and the coastal route it sails. These details give the sleek, modern ship a sense of connection with the land and seascapes beyond its floor-to-ceiling windows.

This is echoed by the artwork in both cabins and public spaces, from paintings of snow-capped mountains to photography of wintry scenes cast with fiery sunsets.

Havila Voyages alfresco bar 1 — Alfresco bar on Havila Capella | Credit: Amaris Proctor

Deck nine is the social heart of the ship, with Havblikk Bar & Lounge offering comfortable seating to watch the world slip by, alongside easy access to the spacious outdoor decks.

On deck six, there’s a more laid-back lounge with faux fireplaces that provide a satisfying crackle. Here, travellers work on puzzles, play board games or curl up with a book – there’s a small library to choose from, including some English titles.

You’ll also find a modest children’s play corner, though overall the ship has a distinctly grown-up feel.

Havila Voyages Bar and Lounge 1 — Havblikk Bar & Lounge | Credit: Amaris Proctor

Cabins

Across categories, accommodation has a streamlined design and a strong sense of welcome. Expect warm lighting, personal climate control, plenty of storage – crucial for bulky jumpers – and comfortable mattresses. In classic Scandi style, the latter comes with two duvets (no sharing required).

If you’re sailing in the auroral season, you can set your desk phone to receive in-cabin Northern Lights announcements. That makes the aurora hunting experience a more relaxing one; you can sit back, safe in the knowledge that the experts are looking out for you.

Havila Voyages Seaview Superior Cabin 1 — Seaview Superior Cabin | Credit: Amaris Proctor

I stayed in a Seaview Superior cabin, which, at 15 square metres, had a good amount of space for two people. There’s a queen bed, a desk with a chair, a small fridge, tea and coffee-making facilities and a TV with a decent number of channels.

Notably, it’s an outside cabin with a picture window, which is a stellar perk when you’re gliding through such striking vistas.

One thing to note: there is a sofa bed, and in theory, you can accommodate up to four people. While this certainly is possible, it would be a squeeze.

Northern Lights from Havila Capella — In-cabin Northern Lights announcements summon you for sights like these | Credit: Amaris Proctor

There are several other cabin configurations to suit different types of travellers. For instance, you can opt for a Seaview Superior with twin beds or a king. Accessible cabins are available for those who need the extra space for a wheelchair.

If you’re travelling on a tighter budget, you may be tempted by an inside cabin. These are compact, and you don’t have the advantage of dazzling views as soon as you jump up, but the trade-offs can be worth it.

On the other hand, if you’re looking to splurge, suites are available. At the top end, you can look forward to 48 square metres, a private balcony with a hot tub and a dining area with space for up to four people.

Food & drink

Let’s just say there’s a reason Havila Voyages was named best for cuisine at the 2024 Wave Awards. The culinary offering was standout.

The main dining venue is Havrand Restaurant. The first thing you’ll notice is that the approach to breakfast, lunch and dinner is à la carte service – a practice instituted to minimise the food waste that’s inevitable when you’re serving endless buffets.

There’s still plenty of choice, with menus that change consistently to reveal the flavours of the specific region through which you’re sailing.

Food on Havila Capella Credit — À la carte dining on Havila Capella | Credit: Amaris Proctor

Breakfast was particularly good. Pots of freshly brewed coffee and fruit juices are brought to your table, and there was a good number of hearty dishes to set you up for a day of exploring. My personal favourite was the waffles served with brown cheese – a ubiquitous Norwegian staple known for its utterly unique, caramelly yet tangy flavour.

Lunch is a menu of small plates, such as salad with bufar cheese or lamb and cabbage broth. Dinner is a substantial three-course affair, with mains like aquavit-cured duck, Norwegian veal with whipped brown butter and halibut from Rogaland. I also spoke to a vegan diner, who assured me that her options exceeded her expectations over the course of the voyage.

Havila Voyages Culinary Offering 1 — Scallops at Hildring, the fine dining venue | Credit: Amaris Proctor

For an extra treat, my advice is to also book in at Hildring, the intimate fine dining restaurant. This is a speciality venue, meaning it does come with an extra charge, but a surprisingly affordable one if you have a full board package. At the time of our sailing, the six-course experience cost about £30 per person, excluding drinks.

When reserving, be sure to find out which menu is being served: they frequently alternate between meat and seafood options, as well as hosting themed events, such as king crab night.

We went for the seafood menu and enjoyed dishes like scallop from Hitra served in its own shell and pan-fried turbot with butter sauce and caviar. Dessert was also far from an afterthought: the sea buckthorn cream with cloudberries and herb crumble was immaculate.

One thing to know? Reindeer features on the meat-forward menu. By all accounts, it’s delicious and has long been a celebrated part of diets in polar regions, but the idea of it still puts some travellers off.

If you prefer a more casual alternative, Havly Café is a cosy spot, serving up a variety of baked goods, as well as burgers and open sandwiches. Best of all, it’s open 24/7, which is useful if you’re staying up to search for the Northern Lights.

Service & facilities

From the moment we embarked, service was efficient, friendly and unobtrusive. Checking in was hassle-free, and whether it was a pen to jot down notes, an extra towel or guidance on how to pronounce a particularly tricky Norwegian word, the crew was happy to help.

That said, they were equally happy to let you do your own thing; they’re well aware that plenty of people are there to rest and enjoy the stillness.

When it comes to facilities, it’s important to arrive with the right expectations. This is not your classic cruise ship, and if you come hoping to find beauty salons, casinos and kids’ clubs, you’ll be disappointed.

Havila Voyages gym 1 — A gym with a view | Credit: Amaris Proctor

What you find instead is a much more minimalist approach, typical of small ship cruising. The gym is compact but equipped with the essential equipment to ensure a good workout. Plus, you get the benefit of floor-to-ceiling windows with great views.

The onboard boutique is well-stocked, with gifts and souvenirs such as Norwegian knitwear, cuddly toys and Northern Lights-themed chocolates. You can additionally purchase essential toiletries if you run out. I got a real kick out of the postal service, with the chance to send postcards stamped from the Arctic.

Hot tubs on deck Havila Capella — Hot tubs on Havila Capella | Credit: Amaris Proctor

Particular highlights were the two saunas and hot tubs, though keep in mind, the latter are outside and running out to them in the middle of winter can be bracing, to say the least. That said, when you’re gazing up at a sky full of stars, it makes the dash through the cold completely worth it. Just remember to pair your bathing suit with a beanie (not joking).

Lastly but not least, there is a complimentary self-service laundry room, which is hugely helpful when you want to refresh your thermals.

Entertainment & excursions

There isn’t entertainment per se. At least not in the way you might expect if you’ve sailed on cruise ships with elaborate, Broadway-style musicals, game shows and string quartets.

Instead, every element of your journey is designed to enhance your relationship with the landscapes and culture through which you’re sailing.

There are regular briefings that combine details about the route, ports and shore excursions with insights into Norwegian culture, such as simple phrases or information about famous artworks.

You may also receive an invitation to taste fresh mussels while sailing past Kjeungskjær Lighthouse, a red octagonal structure that seems to emerge straight from the sea.

Njord a deity of the sea from Norse mythology — ‘Njord’, a deity of the sea from Norse mythology | Credit: Amaris Proctor

A true high point of a northbound voyage is the ceremony held after you’ve passed the Arctic Circle. You’re joined by a bearded ‘Njord’, a deity of the sea from Norse mythology, and invited to take part in an Arctic “baptism”, which involves a scoop of icy water down the back of your shirt.

Excursions, meanwhile, operate on a seasonal basis and are designed to show you the best of the remote destinations you visit. Given that select port stops may be just a few hours, and you’re often dealing with wild, unfamiliar places, they can be one of the most effective ways to make the most of your time.

From speaking to fellow guests, an excursion that stood out for the right reasons was the winter cruise to the UNESCO-listed Geirangerfjord.

Kirkenes Excursion Credit Havila Cruises — King crab fishing (and feasting) excursion in Kirkenes | Credit: Havila Voyages

Another was reindeer sledding in Tromsø, with the chance to feed the majestic creatures. Crucially, you also get to hear directly from Sámi people, for whom reindeer herding has been a part of life for centuries.

One thing to consider, however, is that excursions are subject to the whims of the weather, and in conditions as harsh as these, cancellations do happen.

Value for money

Norway consistently ranks as one of the most expensive countries in Europe, typically above the UK by a notable margin.

When you take that into consideration, Havila Voyages is an exceptionally savvy way to travel the country, considering how much is bundled into the price, including full board, accommodation that feels akin to a four-star hotel and transport to hard-to-get-to destinations.

Havila Voyages Norwegian Flag 1 — Havila Capella offers a relatively affordable way to visit Norway | Credit: Amaris Proctor

Because of its size, Havila Capella can also dock right in the heart of cities and towns, meaning you don’t have to splash out on expensive transport to explore. Plus, Wi-Fi is complimentary, which is not always the case for cruise ships.