The smart way to see Norway in winter? By cruise and train

At a glance

• Great Rail Journeys offers rail-and-sail journeys through Norway, combining Bergen Railway and a Havila Voyages cruise
• It covers destinations including Oslo, Bergen, Ålesund, Trondheim, Bodø, Tromsø, Honningsvåg, Kirkenes and more
• The train ride is a great way to see Norway’s interiors, particularly in winter, with chances to see iced-over rivers, snow-laden spruce and skiers zigzagging down slopes
• A sailing with Havila Voyages during the winter months is particularly attractive for guests keen to see the Northern Lights

In January 2026, I embarked on a 12-day rail-and-sail odyssey through Norway with Great Rail Journeys. It was a trip that promised not one but two bucket-list-worthy experiences: a seven-hour train ride from Oslo to Bergen, followed by a Havila Voyages cruise along the Norwegian coast, sailing beneath the auroral oval.

I wanted to see first-hand if these two modes of travel, train and ship, could deliver the Norway people come for in winter, complete with Northern Lights, Arctic landscapes and silver fjords.

Here’s my complete guide to taking a train-and-cruise journey through Norway.

What should you expect from a rail-and-sail itinerary in Norway?

I took Great Rail Journeys’ Northern Lights on a Winter Arctic Cruise itinerary, starting with a direct flight from Heathrow to Oslo, where we stayed overnight before boarding the Bergen Railway.

We spent two nights in Bergen, Norway’s second city, with a guided tour and a ride on the Fløibanen funicular included, along with time to explore independently.

From there, we boarded a Havila Voyages ship, sailing over 1,000 nautical miles along the Norwegian coast and crossing the Arctic Circle. Along the way, we called at 34 ports, including Ålesund, Trondheim, Bodø, Tromsø and Honningsvåg, before disembarking in Kirkenes.

We then flew back to Oslo for two final nights, with a guided tour and time to explore before heading back to the UK.

What’s included on a rail-and-sail tour of Norway?

On my Great Rail Journeys’ trip, the following was included:

• Six nights aboard a Havila Voyages cruise ship
• Standard Class fare on the Bergen Railway
• Return flights to the UK, plus an internal flight from Kirkenes to Oslo
• Five nights of three and four-star hotel accommodation
• Breakfast each day, plus five lunches and nine dinners
• Luggage transfers between Oslo and Bergen
• Guided tours and excursions, including husky sledding
• The expertise of a UK tour manager from start to finish

At the time of writing, prices start at £3,799 per person. Given that Norway consistently ranks as one of Europe’s most expensive countries, it’s a good value option when you consider how much is bundled into the fare, the level of convenience and the access to hard-to-reach destinations.

What can I expect from the Oslo-to-Bergen train?

The Bergen Railway (Bergensbanen in Norwegian) is the highest rail route in all of northern Europe. It’s also one of the most visually arresting.

Even though its reputation preceded it, nothing quite prepared me for the scenery. I barely got through the first paragraph of the novel I’d brought on the trip, my attention fixed beyond the large windows of the modern, comfortable carriage for the entire seven-hour journey.

You begin by trundling westward through Oslo’s suburbs, which in mid-January were still aglow with festive decorations. As our tour manager Ian noted, “When you hardly see the sun for two months, you tend to keep the fairy lights up.”

The train then moves into forested lowlands, following iced-over rivers through dense swathes of Norwegian spruce. As you gain altitude, the palette turns increasingly monochrome: black rock, white snow, grey sky, broken only by pops of colour as you pass isolated farmhouses painted in Falu red, a traditional pigment from the by-products of copper mining.

In Hallingdal Valley, the scenery turns alpine, occasionally punctuated by towns such as Ål and Geilo, where skiers zigzag down the slopes.

Then it’s on to the literal high point of the journey. As you traverse Hardangervidda plateau, 1,200 metres above sea level, you emerge from one tunnel after another into blindingly white tundra, not a single tree breaking the horizon.

The final stretch sees the landscape change again. As you decline steeply towards Bergen, which sits on the Gulf Stream, the climate warms and snow vanishes into a tapestry of green.

All told, it’s a remarkable journey. There’s something magical about seeing the world change suddenly before your eyes, gradually and then suddenly. It’s the same experience you get aboard the Ghan, Australia’s luxury train that cuts from wine country to rust-red outback, or on Ravos Rail, the South African operator with routes from grasslands and wildlife reserves to hauntingly barren desert.

The emphasis is on the journey, rather than the destination, and that’s exactly what makes rail travel and cruising such natural partners.

Top tip: Head to the onboard café for a coffee and cinnamon bun to enjoy a koselig moment on your train ride.

What is life aboard Havila Voyages really like?

We boarded Havila Capella, which borrows its name from one of the brightest heavenly bodies in the northern sky, a consortium of four stars that has long guided sailors home.

Over the next six days, as we crossed the Arctic Circle and cruised towards Kirkenes, we’d make plenty more such discoveries about the ship, which is quite different from conventional, mainstream cruise lines.

You can read a full lowdown on Havila Voyages here, plus my in-depth review of Havila Capella, but here’s the cheat sheet on what to expect from the onboard experience:

Modern ships: Havila Voyages launched in 2021, and as such, is something of a ‘new kid on the block’. The advantage? Contemporary ships with Scandi-chic décor. Absolutely nothing about the cabins or public spaces feels dated.

Sustainability: Havila Voyages has made waves with its eco-credentials. Notably, all four of its ships can cruise for up to four hours with zero emissions, thanks to massive battery packs, which are charged with hydropower and used in combination with LNG and biogas.

Food & drink: As you might expect from the cruise line that won the 2024 Wave Award for best cuisine, its culinary offering is seriously impressive. Its two restaurants offer sustainable, à la carte dishes made with fresh Norwegian ingredients.

Top tip: Book a night at Hildring, the ship’s speciality venue. It comes with an extra charge, but with your full board package, it works out at about £30 per person, excluding drinks. Given it’s a six-course experience with dishes like pan-fried turbot with butter sauce and caviar, it's well worth the cost.

What not to expect: If you go aboard picturing a megaship with kids’ clubs, casinos and water parks, chances are you’ll be disappointed. What you find instead is a lot more laidback and minimalist, which is typical of small-ship cruising. It’s more about relaxing by a faux fire, watching glaciers and fjords through floor-to-ceiling windows or stargazing from alfresco saunas (in winter, expect to pair your bathing suit with a beanie).

Which ports stand out most on the journey?

The cruise route stops at over 34 ports, but in practice, you’ll get off at around one a day. Many of the stops are brief – sometimes as little as 10 minutes – because they’re designed for locals to hop on and off rather than for tourists to explore, with more time built in to explore more significant hubs.

Havila Voyages is, after all, a vital transport link for remote coastal communities as well as a compelling way for guests to explore Norway.

Here are the three ports where you get a decent amount of time on shore, and which tend to leave as strong impression on visitors:

Ålesund

You can see our full guide to Ålesund here, but in a nutshell, it’s widely considered one of Norway’s most distinctive cities. It’s best known for its Art Nouveau architecture, full of Nordic motifs inspired by nature, which emerged following a devastating 1904 fire.

Mount Aksla is also a must-do; the 418-step climb (or a short taxi ride) is worth it for the views of the town centre, the Sunnmøre Alps and the surrounding islands.

Trondheim

This Viking-age capital is a haven for history lovers, largely due to Nidaros Cathedral, built over the tomb of Norway’s patron saint, St Olav. Today, the Gothic masterpiece is where the country’s monarchs are consecrated.

Nearby is the colourful, historic neighbourhood of Bakklandet, where you’ll find Gamle Bybro (The Old Town Bridge). It’s also known as the ‘Portal of Happiness’, thanks to a popular romantic waltz. It was said to have been written by composer Oskar Hoddø while standing on the bridge one night in April in 1940, three years before he was executed for his role as a resistance fighter during the Nazi occupation of Norway.

Tromsø

Tromsø is known as the Arctic capital of Norway, and you could easily spend a whole winter here without getting bored. From the striking Arctic Cathedral and fascinating Polar Museum to opportunities to learn about Sámi culture while feeding reindeer and some of the world’s most extraordinary whale watching, there’s no shortage of things to do.

That said, Great Rail Journeys also arranges a complimentary husky sledding excursion here, and it’s an experience that’s hard to resist.

Which excursions are included?

Included by Great Rail Journeys

Husky sledding: It’s difficult to overstate just how memorable this is. After a winding bus ride through snow-covered mountains, we reached base camp just as the sun was setting, friendly huskies ready to run through the deep mauve twilight.

We had the option to drive the sleds ourselves, following a brief safety introduction, racing along at what felt like a million miles an hour, with powdery snow glittering around us. When I looked up and saw the intense greens and violets of the Northern Lights shimmering above us, the feeling was pure exhilaration.

Fløibanen funicular in Bergen: This has been transporting locals and visitors up Mount Fløyen since 1918, climbing 320 metres from sea level in a matter of six minutes. At the top, panoramic views reveal the city below, plus fjords, mountains and islands stretching beyond.

From here, you can head out on a range of hikes, weather permitting. The Troll Forest is a gentle option, marked by wooden figures drawn from Norwegian folklore, especially atmospheric when snow begins to fall.

Guided tour of Bergen: This is a great way to get a strong introduction to the ancient port city, with a mix of history, culture and anecdotal detail. It includes Bryggen, the UNESCO-listed harbour district that dates back 900 years, wandering its labyrinth of alleys and learning about Bergen’s role in the Hanseatic League.

You’ll pick up practical tips, from where to shop for souvenirs to the best spot for hot chocolate or even a reindeer hot dog.

Guided tour of Oslo: This tour covers key highlights of the capital, such as Oslo Opera House, Akershus Fortress and the city’s celebrated public library (be sure to check out Future Library on your own time).

It also brings out small details you might miss otherwise. For example, in central Oslo, quotes from playwright Henrik Ibsen are embedded in the pavements, as the guide pointed out.

Optional shore excursions

Beyond what’s included with Great Rail Journeys, Havila Voyages offers additional shore excursions for an extra fee.

Popular options include the winter cruise to the UNESCO-listed Geirangerfjord with a fjord ranger, reindeer sledding in Tromsø and a visit to the North Cape Plateau.

Top tip: Prepare to be flexible. In winter, harsh weather conditions can occasionally disrupt planned excursions.

Will you see the Northern Lights on this kind of trip?

For many travellers, seeing the Northern Lights is the main event. The reality, however, is that aurora-hunting is a game of chance, and not one you’re always guaranteed to win, no matter how carefully you plan.

That’s because they are caused by unpredictable solar activity and rely on clear viewing conditions. Their elusive, ephemeral nature is part of what makes them so sought after.

Here’s the good news. When you’re on a ship in Northern Norway in winter, you’re giving yourself the best possible chance of seeing them. Sailing beneath the auroral oval between late September and early April puts you in a strong position, while being at sea means less light pollution.

On Havila Voyages, you can enable Northern Lights announcements in your cabin, so you know you have the experts looking out for you. Even so, nights are often split between puzzles, checking aurora forecast apps or whiling away the hours over cocktails in Havblikk Bar & Lounge, where the floor-to-ceiling windows frame the polar night beyond.

The first time we heard the longed-for announcement, I rushed outside, only to be met with inky blackness. When my eyes adjusted, I could just make out a faint glimmer above the horizon. Though the green did appear brighter through my iPhone, I found myself thinking, “Is that it? Is that really what the Vikings mistook for the glow of Valkyrie armour?”

Little did I know that the following night, we’d catch the strongest solar storm in over 20 years, with the sky erupting with celestial displays that had to be seen to be believed. Standing out on deck with other passengers, the Arctic cold rolling off the Norwegian Sea, we looked up to see infinite stars twinkling behind an astonishing spectrum of colours.

There were emerald ribbons I’d seen before, but also red, pink and violet arcs vaulting above us like enormous domes, a cathedral unfolding in the Arctic sky. When a fellow passenger turned to me and said, “This is the nearest I’ve ever gotten to a religious experience,” I knew exactly what they meant.

Top tip: iPhones are surprisingly effective at taking Northern Lights photography, often revealing colours that appear fainter to the naked eye. However, taking video of the aurora can be difficult, particularly at sea, where you have to contend with low light and constant movement. A time-lapse is often a better option.

Who is this trip right for?

On this Great Rail Journeys train and cruise trip, I found my fellow travellers came from a wide range of walks of life – nurses, firefighters, teachers, occupational therapists and many more – but what united them all was a tendency to wander.

As our intrepid tour manager Ian told me, “My first time aboard was in Norway on a school trip. I was 14, growing up in a fairly deprived area of Dundee. I came from a grey concrete slab environment, so my abiding memory of that trip was seeing all these green, blue, red and pink houses. Something in my brain clicked. I realised there’s a huge world out there and I wanted to see it.”

Since then, he’d spent decades chasing that ambition across the globe, from Machu Picchu to Tokyo. It was something I saw echoed across the group: they were all seasoned travellers, and frequently regaled me with tales of train journeys through India, meeting the orangutans of Borneo or seeing the salt flats of Bolivia.

Many also weren’t what you’d consider classic cruisers. Most had never been on a cruise before, and those who had tended to opt for off-the-beaten-track destinations, such as the Yangtze River, Antarctica or Cape Horn.

Beyond a shared sense of curiosity, guests diverged significantly. There were couples, multi-gen groups with parents and grown-up children, groups of friends and solo travellers.

As Ian said, “People who do this tend to be very welcoming of others. I think there’s a kind of camaraderie thing – this sense that we’re in this together.”

“It’s also the tour manager’s responsibility to make sure to look out for the signs and ensure no one is isolated. No one is obligated to join in, of course, but at the same time, you can offer opportunities.”

Guests who might not find this trip the best fit? Families with younger children and travellers looking to see Norway on a very tight budget. There are not many departure options that fit with half-term, for instance, and while Havila Voyages ships have a small kids’ corner, they are much more oriented towards adults.

In terms of cost, while it is good value, it’s still a premium experience with access to hard-to-reach places. If you’re looking to do Norway in the cheapest possible way, this is unlikely to match your needs.

Given the ease of travel, the laidback atmosphere on board the ship and the nature of the journey itself, it’s perhaps unsurprising that the demographic tends to skew 50-plus. All things considered, this mode of travel suits those with time and the inclination to do it well, qualities many find in tandem later in life.

How to book

If you’re considering a rail-and-sail journey through Norway, Great Rail Journeys offers a range of departure dates here.

Next up: See a day-to-day breakdown of this itinerary on our YouTube channel.