At a glance
- While Genoa may attract fewer tourists than cities like Venice and Milan, it has a history going back millennia and was once one of the wealthiest cities in Europe
- Today it has a bustling cruise port that serves large, mid-sized and small ships
- The cruise port is conveniently located near the city centre and within walking distance of top attractions
- It has plenty to do for families, foodies, history buffs, art lovers and more
I recently joined a Mediterranean cruise aboard Star Legend, a 312-person all-suite yacht by Windstar Cruises. Considering the itinerary featured stops like Nice, Barcelona and Rome, I must admit Genoa flew slightly under my radar.
When I arrived, on a surprisingly warm winter’s day, I was quickly disarmed by the unpolished but characterful atmosphere of its bustling port and labyrinthine alleys.
In many ways, it reminded me of Marseille, which is too often overlooked in favour of its more glamorous neighbours, but might just be the best of the bunch, particularly for foodies and culture seekers.
Here’s what I found, based on my own exploration and from speaking to fellow guests, including the must-sees you’ll want to tick off before sailing away.
The history of Genoa
This frenetic city, located on the Gulf of Genoa in the Ligurian Sea, is considered the gateway to the Italian Riviera. While it began as a humble fishing village in the pre-Roman period, around the fifth or fourth century BC, it eventually grew into one of the most significant ports in the Mediterranean.
By the 11th century, it had become the capital of a powerful maritime republic that would enjoy roughly 800 years of influence and prosperity. In the 14th century, Petrarch nicknamed it La Superba (the Superb One), and by the 17th it became one of the wealthiest cities in Europe owing to its flourishing port.
However, Genoa’s fortunes would not hold forever. Plagues decimated the city’s population, while the Napoleonic Wars brought political tumult and World War II left the city heavily bombed.
Today, it’s Italy’s sixth largest city, a major industrial hub and a growing destination for travellers with an eye for the authentic. Even if it doesn’t loom as large in the imagination as Milan or Venice, both its bygone glories and battle scars give it a distinct cultural cachet.
Port of Genoa: what to know
Genoa is a significant port in the Western Mediterranean. As well as extensive facilities for commercial vessels, you’ll find two main cruise terminals: Ponte dei Mille and Ponte Andrea Doria, situated a short walk from each other.
One major advantage of docking in Genoa is that unlike some large cruise hubs, such as Civitavecchia (Rome), all cruise facilities are conveniently located within easy reach of the town’s main attractions. The old harbour is minutes away, and the city centre is about 25 minutes by foot or 10 minutes by cab.
Key facts:
- Currency: Euro (€)
- Emergency number: 112
- Nearest train station: Genoa Piazza Principe (approximately 500 metres away)
- Nearest airport: Genoa Christopher Columbus Airport (a 15-minute car ride)
- Time zone: Central European Time (CET) or Central European Summer Time (CEST)
- Population: 564,600
Helpful links:
- Current time in Genoa
- Tourism board
- Annual weather averages
- Taxi services (or call +39 010 5966)
What to do: for everyone
Piazza De Ferrari
If you simply want to immerse yourself in the atmosphere and explore at your leisure, there’s no better place to start than in the city’s main piazza, just 25 minutes from port.
A grand bronze fountain is its defining feature. Sat at its edge, I found myself at the epicentre of Genoese life, at the intersection of the city’s modern and historical centres.
As well as people watching and enjoying the scents of Ligurian cuisine from nearby restaurants, you’ll see a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi, a key figure of the Italian unification, on horseback.
The Teatro Carlo Felice, Genoa’s neoclassical-meets-modernist opera house, is also worth admiring. Even if you don’t have time to catch a show, there are frequently performers belting arias outside.
DIY or with a tour: This really depends on personal preference. While you might get more historical context on a tour, DIY means more opportunities for people watching, spritz in hand.
The carruggi of Genoa
Carruggi are the 3,000 maze-like alleyways that make up the historic centre of Genoa, where modernity and medieval legacy brush up against one another in surprising ways.
Exuberant baroque flourishes blend with bottega (artisan workshops) while centuries-old frescoes overlook kebab shops. Often, I found myself stumbling onto grand courtyards, hemmed in by the homes of 16th-century aristocrats.
If the setup sounds chaotic, that was at least in part the point. As well as optimising the space between the hills and sea as Genoa grew into an economic powerhouse, they were part of the city’s defence strategy, designed to bewilder would-be invaders.
Not sure where to start? Cathedral of San Lorenzo is deeply embedded among them, so when you spot its black-and-white-marble striped façade, you’re in the right place.
DIY or with a tour: DIY is the way to go; getting lost and chancing upon unexpected treasures is part of the magic.
What to do: for families
The Aquarium of Genoa
Just 20 minutes on foot (perhaps a touch longer with little legs) from port you’ll find the largest aquarium in Italy. It’s home to 70 tanks, each designed to replicate distinct habitats, from Arctic to tropical. Across these ecosystems, you can expect to see over 600 species, including sharks, dolphins, manatees, penguins and seals.
Over the course of the stroller-friendly route, which typically takes two to three hours depending on if you pause in the café or restaurant, you’ll also hear how the aquarium contributes to scientific research and conservation projects.
If you have time, you can also visit the nearby Biosphere to learn about the fauna and flora of tropical forests. There are over 150 species to admire, including the scarlet ibis and passionflower.
Or if your kid is comfortable with heights, the Bigo Panoramic Lift soars 40 metres into the air and rotates 360 degrees, giving you a spectacular view of the city and sea.
DIY or with a tour: It’s easy to do on your own, and often cheaper. You can also get tickets that combine the Biosphere and Bigo, if you so wish. Just be sure to book ahead – the aquarium gets over a million visitors every year and queues can be long on weekends and in peak season. Last-minute tickets are more expensive, too.
Galata Museo del Mare
The largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean also happens to be one of the most family friendly, with the added advantages of being just 15 minutes or so from port.
Once you enter, you’ll be whisked through the history of Italian seafaring, from the age of the oar to the age of steam, with tales of sailors, shipwrecks and sea monsters, plus interactive games and activities.
Highlights include a replica of a 17th-century galley and a VR-augmented storm room, where you can see what it’s like to face a tempest at sea. That said, the undisputed standout is the historic submarine, which sits submerged in the sea.
One key caveat: while the museum is designed for families, not every exhibit is appropriate for very young children. The submarine is limited to kids four and up, and the storm room may frighten little ones.
Also, some exhibits tackle more mature subject matter, including topics like the slave trade and colonial conquest, which may bring up questions, particularly for older kids.
DIY or with a tour: Given its proximity to port, it’s straightforward to do independently.
What to do: for foodies
Pietro Romanengo
A 20-minute walk from port, Pietro Romanengo has been perfecting the art of Genoese confectionary since 1780.
Today, you’ll find a kaleidoscope of candied fruits and flowers, almond-based sweets and handmade chocolates, developed with ingredients that thrive on the Italian Riviera, from bitter chinotto oranges to roses and violets.
On sizzling summer days, also expect the temptation of gelati and sorbets, with flavours like orange blossom, pear and dark chocolate and citrus fruit with candied clementine.
DIY or with a tour: You can find excellent foodie tours of Genoa that may well include Pietro Romanengo, but it’s also easy to visit independently.
Creattivando
This workshop, set around 25 minutes from port on foot, or 10 minutes by car, is an excellent place to pick up the basics of Ligurian cooking. In intimate, casual sessions led by locals in English, guests of all ages and abilities can master authentic pesto, which originated right here in Genoa. Wine tastings that reveal the Italian Riviera’s terroir are also available.
DIY or with a tour: Many cruise lines offer excellent pesto making excursions. Which you opt for will likely come down to timings, budget and convenience.
What to do: for history buffs
Christopher Columbus House
Casa di Colombo is an 18th-century reconstruction of the original medieval home where the famous navigator spent his childhood. Today, it serves as a museum revealing the historical context from which this controversial figure emerged, with the chance to see his father’s wool weaving workshop and the quarters where the family lived.
It’s a surprisingly humble abode (I almost walked straight past), and yet still worth visiting, particularly given it’s just five minutes from Piazza De Ferrari.
After having a quick look, I’d head to the ruins of St Andrew Cloister, directly beside it, which is all that remains of a 12th-century monastery that was demolished in 1905.
Porta Soprana, the gate to the medieval city of Genoa, is also steps away. Here, you’ll see two imposing towers, with foreboding inscriptions like, “If you bring peace, you may approach the gate; if you seek war, you shall return sad and beaten.”
DIY or with a tour: I did this DIY, but I think a tour might have been a richer experience. I spent a lot of my time Googling the historical context as opposed to simply being in the moment.
What to do: for art lovers
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi
Few streets in Europe can rival Via Giuseppe Garibaldi for sheer grandeur. The UNESCO-listed avenue is lined with Renaissance palaces known as Palazzi dei Rolli – which are testament to Genoa’s power and prosperity in the 16th century.
Today, it’s home to the prestigious Strada Nuova museum complex, which comprises Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Tursi. A single ticket costing €14 grants you access to over 75 rooms across the three palaces.
If you don’t know where to start, consider prioritising Ecce Homo by Caravaggio, Paganini’s legendary violin or the Penitent Magdalene sculpture by Canova.
DIY or with a tour: This can be done independently, though it’s worth grabbing an audio guide.
Longer out-of-town excursions
Portofino: With its crescent-shaped harbour and multi-coloured houses, this has long been a retreat for aristocrats and Hollywood stars, Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor among them. It’s reachable by train and ferry from Genoa, though given the time constraints, an excursion organised by your cruise line may be the wiser option.
Monterosso al Mare: This is one of five historic villages within Cinque Terre National Park, and the most accessible from Genoa (about an hour and a half by train). Sun-soaked beaches, terraced vineyards and scenic hiking trails await.
Pelagos Sanctuary: Genoa is a great base for a whale watching tour in this protected area of the Ligurian Sea, known for its concentration of fin whales, sperm whales, dolphins and turtles. Just be sure to allow plenty of time to get back to port. Missing your ship is not a risk worth taking.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where are the nearest medical facilities?
Hospital Galliera is around 10 minutes by cab, and it also has a dental emergency room (on weekdays, 8am to 3pm). Remember to bring your GHIC with you, which lets you access medically necessary, state-provided healthcare in the EU.
However, keep in mind that for many ailments, you’re usually better off using your ship’s medical centre, especially since most cruise stops only last a day and onboard doctors can manage any follow-up care.
Which cruise lines visit Genoa?
Genoa is an important home port for MSC, with many of its Western Mediterranean cruises beginning or ending here. Beyond that, you’ll find a wide selection of cruise lines call here, including Princess Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line and Royal Caribbean International. That extends to several operators that are aimed specifically at the UK market, including Cunard, P&O Cruises and Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines, as well as boutique, luxury lines like Seabourn and Windstar Cruises.
What is the weather like in Genoa?
Genoa enjoys a temperate climate, with fewer extremes than you’d find elsewhere in the region. That’s because on one side it’s shielded by mountains, which protect it from the cold winds of Central Europe, while on the other the Ligurian Sea acts as a thermal regulator, absorbing heat in the summer and releasing it in the cooler months.
As a result, expect long, pleasant summers that peak in the high 20s, paired with mild winters, particularly compared to the rest of Northern Italy. When I disembarked in January, I found short sleeves were perfectly comfortable.
What is the cruise season in Genoa?
A few years ago, I might have said May to October, but increasingly, you’ll find cruises to Genoa run year-round. For example, I sailed with Windstar Cruises in January on one of its ‘local season’ itineraries, which are designed to showcase marquee Mediterranean ports without the crowds and heat of summer.
How do you pay for things in Genoa?
The euro (€) is the currency used in Genoa. Cards are accepted in the majority of establishments, and I used my Monzo card without a hitch in most places. Fellow guests told me they used similar cards like Starling and Revolut without any issues.
The exception to this is markets and outdoor stalls. When I went to pick up some vintage postcards at a local antiques market, I was directed to a nearby ATM to get cash for my purchase.
Is English widely spoken in Genoa?
Yes, it is widely spoken, particularly by younger generations. In the centre and around popular tourist attractions, you’ll find signs and menus are often in English, too.
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