What to do in Buenos Aires, Argentina, from your cruise ship

At a glance:

• The home of sizzling steak, sultry tango, Evita and football legend Diego Maradona, Buenos Aires is a blast
• Dubbed the ‘Paris of the South’, Buenos Aires has endured hyperinflation, economic meltdowns and corrupt governments, yet has managed to maintain its spirit
• Ships dock conveniently near downtown Buenos Aires at Benito Quinquela Martín Passenger Terminal on Av Ramón Castillo 13
• The best time to visit BA is in October and November (spring), when the jacaranda trees are in full bloom, and March to May (autumn)
• Getting around is easy: BA has an enviable public transport system, and taxis are inexpensive
• BA is considered one of the safest big cities in South America, but visitors should exercise common sense and be alert to pickpockets and scam artists

Porteños – as residents of Buenos Aires are affectionately known – have seen it all. They have been governed by Peronists (Néstor Kirchner, followed by his wife Cristina Fernández de Kirchner), centre-right Mauricio Macri, centre-left Alberto Fernández and now far-right Javier Milei – a former TV pundit who has been dubbed ‘the madman’ by his critics. And they’ve lived through hyperinflation, frequent power cuts and economic meltdowns.

And that’s just in recent years. As VS Naipaul, who made several trips to the city in the 1970s, put it even then: “The failure of Argentina, so rich, so underpopulated, 23 million people in a million square miles, is one of the mysteries of our time.”

Yet despite its troubles, BA – which earned its nickname ‘the Paris of the South’ owing to its European-inspired architecture – hasn’t lost its sense of fun.

Spend your day in Buenos Aires indulging in fantastic food (the city’s steakhouses are rightly legendary), Malbec (Argentina’s signature grape) and infectious football games, before tangoing up a storm when night falls. Chances are you’ll be joined by the proud, passionate Porteños themselves.

Buenos Aires cruise port and town

Ships dock at Benito Quinquela Martín Cruise Terminal. But don’t hang around here, as there is very little to do. Instead, head straight to downtown Buenos Aires.

While you could walk, we wouldn’t recommend it as you’d be passing through a busy, industrial area. Aim to catch one of the complimentary shuttles offered by lines like Viking that drop passengers off at convenient locations such as Plaza San Martín.

Alternatively, take a taxi (there’s no subway or public transport near the cruise port) and start exploring the Paris of the South.

Where do ships dock in Buenos Aires

Benito Quinquela Martín Cruise Terminal is enviably located just under two miles or a mere 15-minute drive from the city centre.

Cruise lines including Holland America Line, Royal Caribbean International, Oceania Cruises, Viking, Ponant and Silversea all call here.

Buenos Aires port essentials

Need some painkillers? A pair of tango shoes for the dance class you’ve booked (well, when in Rome…)? Some alfajores – soft, crumbly biscuits sandwiching a layer of dulce de leche – or a Boca Juniors football shirt to take home as a souvenir of your time in Buenos Aires? This section is here to help.

What shops and services are at the port

Named for a 20th-century artist, Benito Quinquela Martín Passenger Terminal is home to restaurants, cafés, currency exchange spots, shops selling local souvenirs and duty-free goods, tourist information booths and third-party excursion stalls.

A note on the latter: while prices are lower than those offered by the cruise lines, it’s also perfectly possible to explore the lion’s share of Baires attractions independently: taxis are cheap and plentiful.

What shops and services are in town

• Calle Florida, a mile-long pedestrian mall that’s home to big brand stores and souvenir shops alike, is the prominent shopping street in downtown Buenos Aires.
• You can’t leave BA without picking up a pair of tango shoes, and the street to do so is Suipacha, which is only a few blocks away from Calle Florida.
• Palermo is one of BA’s trendiest barrios, where chi-chi boutique shops selling cool threads are slotted between hip restaurants and bars.

How to pay for things in Buenos Aires

In Buenos Aires, cash is still very much king. While some restaurants and shops accept card payment (there'll usually be a sign at the counter), they're the exception rather than the rule.

The peso is Argentina's national currency, but many Argentines have little faith in it – the distrust dates back to the economic crisis of 2001, when the government at the time put limits on the cash Argentines could withdraw from their bank accounts, and prefer to convert any spare pesos into dollars. The upshot? It’s a good idea to carry a mix of pesos and dollars when venturing ashore.

It’s easy to obtain local currency in Buenos Aires at casas de cambio (bureaux de change/currency exchanges) and at most banks, but note that you'll need to provide ID when changing money. Getting your hands on dollars isn’t as straightforward, so bring them with you.

How safe is Buenos Aires

BA is one of the safest big cities in South America, but that doesn’t mean you should let your guard down. While Milei has cut inflation, Porteños still struggle to afford basics – prompting a rise in petty crime.

Be aware of pickpockets when on public transport and at popular (and perennially busy) markets such as San Telmo and in barrios (neighbourhoods) including gritty La Boca and Retiro.

Wherever you go, make sure you keep your iPhone out of sight – certainly never put it down on a table in a café or restaurant – as there is a good chance it will be snatched. iPhones are prohibitively expensive in Argentina – due to a combination of import restrictions, high internal taxes and local manufacturing subsidies – as I discovered when mine was stolen during my stint living in Baires.

What to do in Buenos Aires

Typically, cruise ships stay in BA for around eight to nine hours, although some stay overnight, thereby allowing you to experience Argentina’s legendary nightlife scene and party like a Porteño.

Keep in mind, though, as I can attest, that one visit will never be enough. I touched down for two weeks, which turned into two years, and, even since leaving, I’ve found myself returning again and again.

Our ideal day in Buenos Aires

Disembarking for a day in Baires? Here are the best things to do.

• Pay a visit to the presidential palace
• Chill out at a café
• Visit Evita’s resting place
• Take in some tango
• Shop till you drop at San Telmo market
• Tour the legendary La Bombonera stadium

Want to build your perfect day in Buenos Aires? You’ll find more information about the aforementioned attractions below:

For everyone

These crowd-pleasers are perfect for everybody – try to tick off as many as you can.

La Casa Rosada

• What is it? The pretty pink presidential palace lies on the east side of Plaza de Mayo (where protests and demonstrations are as much a daily event as dinner). It was on the balcony of the presidential palace that footballing god Diego Maradona greeted crowds after helping his country lift the 1986 World Cup. It’s also where Evita used to address her descamisados. If you’re in town at the weekend, you can tour La Casa Rosada for free upon presentation of your passport, but you’ll need to book online in advance.
• Distance to port: You can reach La Casa Rosada on foot in around 15-30 minutes, depending on your pace. Alternatively, hop in a taxi.
• How to get there: As the port is close to La Casa Rosada, use a mapping app on your phone if walking or ask for directions from locals. If you’re planning on taking a taxi, drivers are au fait with the destination.
• Price: Free
• DIY or with a tour: Save your money and go solo.
• Worth doing? Yes. La Casa Rosada, named for its distinctive colour, is one of Buenos Aires’ top attractions.

Recoleta Cemetery

• What is it? This cemetery in the neighbourhood of the same name is where former presidents, military generals, artists and, yes, Evita, have been buried in ornate mausoleums made of stone and bronze. To find Evita’s final resting place, simply follow the crowds to the cemetery's heart. Plaques and freshly picked flowers adorn her tomb, as does an inscription that famously reads: "I will return and be millions!"
• Distance to port: Approximately 20 minutes by car.
• How to get there: Flag down a taxi.
• Price: Free
• DIY or with a tour: It’s easy to visit under your own steam.
• Worth doing? Absolutely, this is Buenos Aires’ number one tourist attraction and for good reason – it’s one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world.

Las Violetas

• What is it? This historic café is set in the Almagro barrio. Here, the cortado and accompanying medialuna (sweet, crescent-shaped pastries) are served on silver platters by waiters in white jackets, against a backdrop of black-and-white tiled floors, stained glass windows and marble columns.
• Distance to port: Approximately 30 minutes by car or 45 minutes by bus.
• How to get there: Take bus no 26 from the cruise terminal to Almagro, then walk for eight minutes or hail a taxi.
• Price: A cortado and medialuna costs approximately $4.
• DIY or with a tour: Independently. There’s no need to take a tour.
• Worth doing? Yes, to experience Buenos Aires’ seriously impressive café culture. Cafés are to Buenos Aires what churches are to Rome, and you’ll find them on every corner. Hang around in one long enough and you’ll soon find yourself swapping stories and secrets with Porteños.

San Telmo

• What is it? The bohemian barrio of San Telmo is famed for its narrow cobbled streets, crumbling villas and, crucially, the Feria de San Telmo. This unmissable Sunday market sells everything from local crafts and leather goods to mate cups and jewellery. Expect colourful street performances, too.
• Distance to port: A 50-minute walk or a quick 10 minutes in a taxi.
• How to get there: A taxi is the most convenient way to reach San Telmo and its atmospheric market, although, if you’re looking to burn off some of the calories you’ve been consuming on board, walking is possible.
• Price: Free, providing you can resist the urge to shop.
• DIY or with a tour: San Telmo can be explored independently, but a tour could be worth it if you’re concerned about crowds.
• Worth doing? Yes. Even if shopping isn’t your bag, San Telmo and its colourful street market are worth visiting for the atmosphere alone.

Confitería Ideal

• What is it? Skip the overpriced shows that are squarely aimed at tourists and check out Confitería Ideal, where you can join or watch (if you have two left feet) a milonga, aka an event whereby people gather to dance Argentine tango.
• Distance to port: Roughly 25 minutes by car.
• How to get there: Ask a taxi to take you to Suipacha 384.
• Price: From around $50 per person, factoring in a tango show, a couple of drinks and an empanada.
• DIY or with a tour: It’s extremely easy to do independently.
• Worth doing? Yes. You can't come to the capital of tango (arguably Argentina’s greatest contribution to the world) and fail to see a show.

For football fans

La Bombonera

• What is it? The stadium where Boca Juniors – Argentina’s favourite football club – play in their iconic la azul y oro (blue and gold) strip. Scoring a ticket to a match is notoriously difficult (and expensive), but you can at least see the stadium and pitch during a visit to the Museo de la Pasión Boquense, a high-tech fútbol museum.
• Distance to port: 20 minutes from the port by taxi or approximately 40 minutes by bus.
• How to get there: Take a taxi. No metro line runs to La Boca, and while you could travel by bus, there’s no direct line, so you’ll have to change buses once.
• Price: At the time of writing, tickets start at $33 for adults and $29 for children. Kids under four get in for free.
• DIY or with a tour: Book tickets online.
• Worth doing? If you’re a fan of the beautiful game, then yes. If you’ve never heard of Messi or Maradona, give it a miss.

For bookworms

El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore

• What is it? Opened as a theatre in 1919 and converted into a bookstore in 2000, El Ateneo Grand Splendid still boasts balconies, white and gold-leaf boxes, crimson stage curtains and high painted ceilings. It is, in my humble opinion, the most beautiful bookstore in the world.
• Distance to port: A 15-minute bus ride from the port.
• How to get there: Take bus line 108 from the cruise terminal to Avenida Callao and Avenida Santa Fe. From here, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a mere two-minute walk.
• Price: Free (unless you buy a book or stop for a coffee and cake in the majestic café).
• DIY or with a tour: Go solo.
• Worth doing? It’s a must-see – regardless of whether you’re in the market for a book or not.

For art lovers

Buenos Aires Street Art

• What is it? The Argentine capital is one of the world’s best cities for street art, as there are almost no restrictions as to where spray-paint Picassos can express themselves.
• One of the best ways to see Buenos Aires’ spectacular street art scene is by signing up for a walking tour with Buenos Aires Street Art.
• The company was founded by Matt Fox-Tucker, a Brit who co-authored the book Textura Dos: Buenos Aires Street Art, and runs tours every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 2 pm.
• Distance to port: About 30 minutes by car.
• How to get there: Taking a taxi is your best option, as travelling by public transport involves several changes.
• Price: Two-and-a-half-hour tours cost $20 or ARS 26,000.
• DIY or with a tour: Book tickets here
• Worth doing? Yes, for the chance to see some inspiring murals and explore several different neighbourhoods in the northwestern part of the city.

For families

Parque Tres de Febrero

• What is it? A large park in the well-heeled neighbourhood of Palermo that features two lakes with pedal boats for hire, a planetarium and a pretty rose garden that has more than 18,000 roses from 93 different species.
• Distance to port: About 20 minutes by car or 40 minutes by public transport.
• How to get there: Hail a taxi. While you can reach Parque Tres de Febrero by public transport, it’s a bit of a hassle: you’ll need to change lines.
• Price: Free
• Worth doing? This is a great place to go if you’ve got kids in tow, as there is so much space for little ones to run around and let off steam. It’s a brilliant spot to tap into local life: Palermo’s trendy residents can be found rollerblading and walking their dogs.

FAQ

Where is the nearest medical facility in Buenos Aires?

The closest hospitals to the cruise port are Hospital General de Agudos Dr Carlos Durand and Hospital Italiano de Buenos Aires.

The former is free but may require a long wait. The latter, a private hospital, is preferable for tourists, but there’s often a high cost involved – so it’s advisable to have medical insurance as well as travel insurance.

Another option (and potentially faster one) is to seek out the medical centre on board your ship.

What happens if I miss the ship?

Miss the ship and you'll find yourself not only stranded but forced to cover the cost of catching up with your fellow passengers at the next stop or heading home early.

Is a day enough to see Buenos Aires?

A single day will give you a good taste of the city and its main attractions – La Casa Rosada, Recoleta Cemetery, et al. However, it's not enough to experience all that the Paris of the South has to offer, so if your sailing starts or ends in Baires, consider extending your trip with a pre- or post-cruise hotel stay.