The Modern Med to Ancient Aegean
With a name inspired by an early Virgin Atlantic plane, Scarlet Lady is Virgin Voyages' premium take on what a luxury cruise ship means - sailing from the vibrant shores of Miami. Ushering in a new era for sea travel, she's designed with a unique approach to how cruises look and feel.
Almost everything is different on this brash new entry to the cruising market, including an emphasis on adult relations, gym time, and self-indulgent social activity.
Sir Richard Branson's adults-only, bright red-liveried new ship also has a fantastic nightclub and a food court instead of a buffet. There are exciting plans for a fleet of new ships on the horizon, to join the already established fleet of cruise ships that go against the grain.
Known in Sardinia as Casteddu, Cagliari will enchant and cast a spell on you, just as it did on the famed writer D.H Lawrence. Lawrence proclaimed that he found Cagliari to be "strange and rather wonderful, not a bit like Italy".
That's not to say that Italy is un-wonderful. Lawrence basically summarised how most people feel when exploring Cagliari - it's not just another Italian city. There's something quite different here. The city is stratified beyond words, and wonderfully diverse.
Cagliari's diversity is firmly rooted in history. The city was founded during the 8th Century BC by the Phoenicians, before being dominated by the Romans, the Arabs, the Pisans, and the Punics, alongside the Aragonese. Each civilization left its stamp, crafting a multi-layered metropolis for the ages.
Set in the shadow of Mount Etna, the ancient port city and second largest in Sicily is steeped in natural and historical wonders. Nicknamed the ‘grey city’ due to the signature colour of the lava rocks used in many of the buildings, Catania is far from colourless, being rich in historic sites, beautiful Baroque buildings, volcanic landscapes and lava fields.
Malta: the country that God built. Well, kind of. Malta is well-known for being the once-stronghold of the famous religious military order, The Knights Hospitaller, who were granted the land in 1530 from the King of Spain in exchange for an annual fee of one Maltese falcon (which eventually inspired the name of Dashiell Hammett’s famous novel). And these marauding knights certainly did a great job putting the place together. Valletta, the nation’s capital, remains the highlight and exploring this fascinating walled city (which kept the Hospitallers secure until they came across Napoleon in 1798) is akin to walking back in time. It’s small size (just 0.3 square miles) makes it the perfect cruise stopover and is the ideal base for exploring the rest of the country on excursions.
Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest.
Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating. Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands.
The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town's medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and churches, with their red or blue doors and domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture.
Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to preserve the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved.
Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law.
Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all.
After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews.
Eventually, the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network. Morning on Mykonos town's main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night's mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos's produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low.
In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta.
By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed for summer and starting to shimmy with the scene.
Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can. Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Mando Mavrogenous Square.
With a name inspired by an early Virgin Atlantic plane, Scarlet Lady is Virgin Voyages' premium take on what a luxury cruise ship means - sailing from the vibrant shores of Miami. Ushering in a new era for sea travel, she's designed with a unique approach to how cruises look and feel.